It was a rainy morning today. And I didn’t sleep terrifically well last night. The privacy curtains are great — but I think they made my British roommates slightly sociopathic about talking, turning lights on, and generally causing mayhem at 3 AM, since they couldn’t see me trying to sleep. (Or maybe it was the cocktails waking me up with night sweats — alcohol can really disturb your sleep.)

Can I blame them for partying late, though? At night, the alley near our hostel transforms into a lively pedestrian zone, with music bumping and clubbers staggering through the street.

So I slept in. Then, for brunch, I went to New York Café — a famous Budapest restaurant that bills itself as “the most beautiful café in the world.” And I think they have the right to do so!

I didn’t have a reservation, so I intentionally arrived at the awkward 11-12 PM window between breakfast and lunch service, and someone seated me almost immediately. The interior was opulent and extravagant. On a stage, classical musicians played some U.S. hits: “My Heart Will Go On,” “If I Were a Rich Man,” etc.

I ordered a sampler of cakes and an espresso. The espresso shot came with a small pitcher of foamed milk, a cookie, and a shot glass of water. (For cleansing the palate?)

I felt myself wanting to linger inside to enjoy the elegant atmosphere and wait out the rain, so I ordered an entree too. It wasn’t cheap, but still not too much of a hit on my wallet; the most recherché café in Budapest is quite affordable. €16 for my cake platter, €20 for lunch. (I feel like I’m going to be mentioning prices a lot.)

Shopping for clothes was next. Secondhand shopping here is bananas! I found lots of cool stuff. I’m not sure if I just got lucky or whether Budapest likes fast fashion and consumerism more than Munich and Salzburg. I think maybe the second theory is right.

Next was the Museum of Terror — which chronicled Hungary’s domination by a Nazi-like group from within called the Arrow Cross Party, and then the Soviet Union.

The Arrow Cross party murdered Jews and Roma during WWII much like the Nazis, whereas the Soviet Union dismantled democracy and sent many Hungarians to work camps (gulags) where they often died by disease.

The museum referred to Soviet Communism as an authoritarian “human experiment” which ultimately failed. Much like East Germany, Hungary was victim to a planned economy after WWII that went against its citizens’ interests. Soviets despised “kulaks” — nobility and farmers with large amounts of land — and stripped them of their property. Even average farmers were dogged, forced to give most of what they grew to the Soviets as “reparations” and not allowed to so much as slaughter animals without permission. Meanwhile, shortages of the most basic food items were rampant… and meanwhile the Soviets produced propaganda based on Western advertising about the great success of the Communist project. (As someone who actually read “1984,” this description certainly had major 1984 vibes.) Finally, Soviets bloodily suppressed a popular revolution, using tanks against unarmed civilians. (Much to the disappointment of Communism supporters in the West.) Hungary was finally liberated in 1994.

The final highlight of the day was a buffet dinner cruise over the Danube, with live music! Only about €55 for this. I had such a good time stuffing myself and relaxing as the boat smoothly sailed across the river. After eating dinner, most passengers went out to one of the decks to enjoy the view.

Before I go to bed, here are some other lovely pictures from today.